Smoky, dark and alluring is how this modern-leaning Rioja starts out. The nose is meaty and ultraripe, but balanced. And so is the palate, which shows flavors of blackberry, cassis, tobacco, cola and coffee. The finish is cuddly and long, with a splinter of coconut and lots of spice. A “racimo” in Spanish is a bunch, so the name refers to the three or so grape bunches that each vine produces.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 93