There’s so much Italian Pinot Grigio on the market today and so much of it tastes exactly the same. Among the exceptions is this Pinot Grigio (75 percent) and Verduzzo blend. Thanks to its thicker skins, Verduzzo undergoes extra ripening on drying racks after a late harvest for further concentration of flavors and mouth texture. The Pinot Grigio component reinforces the wine’s citrus freshness and peach-like aromas. This is an easy-to-drink white winewith a charis-matic and sophisticated edge. ——M.L.(11/15/2006)—— 89