An extravagant bouquet of blackberries, plums, incense, rose petals and wood smoke introduces the 2017 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and multidimensional wine that's nicely concentrated and complete, its structuring tannins generously cloaked in juicy fruit, its finish long and precise. This year, Cheurlin vinified the two parts of his Grands Echezeaux separately but concluded—predictably, we agreed—that the whole was more interesting than the sum of the parts.