Bright and piercing, with dried pineapple, chamomile, honeysuckle and lemon verbena notes that show good cut, while yellow apple and melon rind notes fill in on the racy finish. Drink now through 2011. 3,000 cases made. -JM

Pale gold. Poached pear and peach on the nose, with hints of honey and smoke that gain strength with air. Juicy and pliant on entry, then firmer in the mid-palate, offering focused orchard fruit flavors and a touch of bitter citrus zest. Finishes with good sappy persistence, but with a slightly bitter edge.

Heavily toasted, but with minerality the nose works. The palate starts with forward woodiness, but soon thereafter apple and green banana flavors push the oak aside. Very nice in terms of feel even if the acidity keeps it cranking. Additional resin and vanilla take over on the finish. A better wine with less oak? You be the judge.——M.S.(7/1/2010)—— 89