Dominique Lafon's parcel of Montrachet produced his highest yields (30 hectoliters per hectare) in 1998. Four and a half barrels of this magnificent nectar were made. Harvested at 14% natural potential alcohol, it reveals pears, peaches, apricots, and flowers in its intense aromatic profile. Medium to full-bodied, expansive, and palate-coating, this elegant, classy, and rich wine is crammed with spices, white fruits, and minerals. It has outstanding presence, detail, and focus. It is not a muscular wine, yet possesses extraordinary underlying power in its precise character. This tour de force has an extraordinarily long, delineated, and mineral-laden finish. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2012+. Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel (617) 876-5105.