The 2008 Pinot Noir Thea’s Selection exhibits a slightly roasted character along with notes of cedar, underbrush, clove, and black cherry. On the palate it has excellent grip, considerable density, savory flavors, and a forward personality. Although it has the ability to evolve for 1-2 years, it can be approached now and over the next 6-8 years. Tel. (503) 852-6619; www.lemelsonvineyards.com

Thea’s, the blended offering in Lemelson’s stable of single vineyard Pinots, advances the idea that blends are often the most complete wines in a lineup. Though each of Lemelson’s single vineyard wines has its own unique particularity, this wine takes the best of them and gracefully pulls them all together. A gentle mix of spice, floral, mocha, forest and chocolate streaks, it is buttressed with firm purple fruits and polished tannins. ——P.G.(10/1/2011)—— 90