The 2013 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a backward, reticent nose at first, but it opens nicely with touches of oyster shell and limestone infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is clean and fresh, a pleasant symmetry here with finely tuned acidity and well-integrated oak that only makes a fleeting appearance right on the finish. This is an assured Criots that should drink earlier than either the Chevalier or the Montrachet.