The 2010 Reserva Vinho Verde, from winemaker Anselmo Mendes, is 100% Loureiro, fermented in tank. I didn’t like this much at all when it was cold, but to its credit, I liked it more and more as it evolved. Opening steely and hard edged, it became friendlier and fruity while retaining its crispness and minerality as it aired out and warmed up. Coming in at 12%, it is not light, but not ponderous either. Drink now.