In his third vintage from this site, Donnhoff has rendered a 2008 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling trocken that expresses the austere side of the vintage and seems appropriately named (-bald mountain-). (It's also labeled sans Pradikat, in keeping with the decision of the Nahe VDP to eliminate such designations for dry wines). Meat stock, charred wood, and alkaline mineral notes inform a palate of firmness and transparency to more subtle mineral shadings, yet of Burgundian amplitude. Walnut oil piquancy emerges with some time open to the air. This is a study in understatement that will prove fascinating if properly paired over the next 3-5 years. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300