Built for an octopus-and-boiled-potato appetizer with extra virgin olive oil, the Jermann 2015 Pinot Nero Lonsblau (closed in a screwcap bottle) is another light and luminous expression from northeast Italy. The wine shows a great deal of purity and focus with wild berry, blue flower, candied orange peel and crushed stone or iron ore. It is thin but also compact in delivery, showing more in length and freshness than it does texture or build. It feels feather light on the palate.