The 2006 Aglianico del Taburno is an attractive, fresh wine with pretty, bright red fruit, sweet herbs and flowers. This shows lovely complexity and is best enjoyed on the young side. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Biodynamic farming and a non-interventionalist approach in the vineyards are the rule at Ocone.Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Available at an attractively low price, this oak-aged Aglianico opens with dark, brooding tones of cassis, dark spice, resin, tar and black licorice. The mouthfeel is firm and tight, making this wine suitable for a fatty meat dish such as a juicy cheeseburger.——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 86