From St. Helena, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Chabot Vineyard is an outstanding effort displaying notes of black currants, cedar, and graphite, presented in a medium to full-bodied, soft, velvety format. Previously recommended: 2005 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release (93), 2005 Chardonnay Private Reserve (93), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve (92).Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Chabot Vineyard from St. Helena shows loads of chocolate, cedar, Christmas fruitcake and black currants and is fully mature. As long-time readers know, Beringer’s Private Reserve is a blend of all of the single-vineyard cuvees in various percentages that differ considerably depending on the vintage. They are available through the Private Members Club at Beringer and are not put on the market, as the only one to be released is the Private Reserve, which proves the blending skills of the winemakers. And those winemakers have been at Beringer for a long time, including Ed Sbragia, and Laurie Hook. As for the single-vineyard wines, I’ll keep my notes short, since these are only available to members. Tel. (866) 708-9463

The vineyard, long a source for Beringer’s Cabs, is in the north-central valley, east of the Silverado Trail, just below Howell Mountain. It shows the hard, tough tannins of Cabs from that neck of the woods. Flavors of red currants, cherries and cocoa are rich and vibrant, but the wine is too astringent to open now. Hold until after 2010, and it should develop for an additional 6–8 years.——S.H.(4/1/2008)—— 92