From a little-known region of Western Australia, this is a restrained, structured example of Chardonnay that may drink well for 5–6 years. Subtle vanilla and bacon shadings upfront add nuance to the melon and pear aromas. Flavors are of soft, fully ripe tree fruit and melon, but held in check by citrusy notes and crisp acids.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 90