Massolino’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is one of only two riservas I am aware of that were made in 2002, the other being Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino, both of which are produced in Serralunga. Today the wine is dense and powerful with big tannins that make it difficult to fully assess. With air, sweet herbal notes develop in the glass but the wine never completely opens, though it finishes with terrific energy and freshness. If the fruit emerges, this could deserve a higher score down the road. It will be very interesting to see how this wine develops. According to Franco Massolino there was no hail in Vigna Rionda in 2002. Because of the cool weather, yields were reduced dramatically to allow the fruit to ripen. The harvest went into November and production is just one-third of normal. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino have a top-flight set of wines with their 2004 Barolos. The wines are fermented in cement, then undergo malolactic fermentation in a combination of cement and steel prior to being racked into large Slavonian oak casks for roughly two and half years. The Parafada is the only Barolo that sees French oak. Readers who want to learn more about the estate can re-visit my recent feature on www.erobertparker.com.mporter: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799
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