The ultraripe tannins of this wine are so soft, it would be no shame to think, for a moment, that it is a ’97. Leather and bitter dark-chocolate aromas lead into flavors of sour black plums, cocoa and coffee grounds. Despite this wine’s softness, it should age well on its level of fruit concentration and firm acidity. Drink now through 2010. ——J.C.(9/1/2001)—— 88