Pungent aromas of smoky black tea, black pepper, and oriental spices arise from the Pousse d'Or 2006 Volnay Clos d’Audignac, to be joined on the palate by tart red raspberry and pomegranate. While this doesn't hide its abundant tannins, and is almost sizzling in its finishing pungency as well as decidedly marked by cyanic fruit pit bitterness, it boasts a juiciness of sweetly ripe fresh fruit and a sense of lift that is missing from several of its stable mates. One can start enjoying it right away and anticipate at least 6-8 years of further pleasure. Patrick Landanger reports having fermented longer and worked harder to extract flavor from his 2006 crop, and while the results are undeniably concentrated, on the occasion of my tasting, several suffered a bit from opacity and tannic severity. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93