The 2008 Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge, sourced from the Celilo Vineyard (55%) and the Underwood Mountain Vineyard (45%), and made with 20-30% whole clusters. Dark ruby-colored, it displays an enticing perfume of black cherry, black raspberry, spice box, and incense. Savory on the palate and already revealing some complexity, this intense Pinot will have more to say with another 2-3 years of bottle age. James and Poppie Mantone’s Syncline Wine Cellars is on the eastern edge of the beautiful Columbia Gorge, an area better known for outdoor sports (fishing, boating, wind surfing) than wine production. The winery’s new collection is once again outstanding from beginning to end.Tel. (509) 365-4361; www.synclinewine.com