Although the term “Grosses Gewachs” is associated with the VDP growers association (yet utilized by relatively few of that organization’s Mosel members), a number of members of the so-called Bernkastler Ring adopted the term in 2006 and again this year to refer to ambitious dry-tasting Riesling bottlings. Kerpen’s 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Grosses Gewachs offers grapefruit zest and toasted nuts on the nose and a piquant palate. Impressively dense, this manages to avoid any sense of heaviness, heat, or harshness from its 13% alcohol, and finishes with imposing depth of nutty be worth following for at least 5-6 years. While Martin Kerpen’s extensive array of dry Rieslings from 2007 is not on quite the superlative order of their immediate predecessors, his residually sweet wines are again highly successful.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300