The 2007 Merlot In Violas is a surprisingly big, powerful wine bursting with sheer personality. Varietal character takes a back seat in this full-bodied, structured Merlot. Tar, smoke, licorice and a host of dark aromas and flavors are layered into the brooding finish. The wine's balance and overall sense of harmony are superb. This is a super-impressive showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

This is a gorgeous wine with enormous intensity of fruit that comes forward as cherry, blackberry, spice, leather and cigar box. The texture is soft, smooth and velvety: In Violas has the heft and persistency to stand up to rosemary-marinated T-bone steak. ——M.L.(12/15/2010)—— 92