Clay, smoke, and earth can be discerned in the aromatics of Donnhoff's 2001 Riesling Spatlese Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube. This satin-textured, medium-bodied wine is stupendously pure and delineated as well as unbelievably concentrated, deep, and powerful. Typical of a wine from the Nahe, its flavors are dominated by minerals, earth, and smoky flint rather than primary fruit. Armed with a magnificently flavorful and lengthy finish, it is an exceptional Spatlese to drink between 2006 and 2020. Helmut Donnhoff approached the 2001 vintage much as Reggie Jackson would have reacted to facing a fast ball down the middle thrown by a Junior Varsity pitcher in the bottom of the ninth of the last game of the World Series. Donnhoff hit a towering, grand slam home run of majestic proportions. His 2001s are extraordinary. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Helmut Donnhof is at the top of his game. From its explosive nose of powdered quartz and fresh apple skin through the flavors of apple, peach, melon and mineral, this wine has it all. It’s medium-weight—even a bit full-bodied for Riesling—but impeccably balanced. Great length completes the package. Simply put, a tour de force. —J.C. ——J.C.(3/1/2003)—— 93