Seductive is the prodigious 1999 Rubino, a cask-aged, unfined, unfiltered blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. It exhibits a smoky, chocolatey bouquet with hints of cassis, tobacco, and toasty new oak. With superb definition, moderate tannin, excellent structure, and exceptional concentration as well as overall purity, this full-bodied, blockbuster effort can be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. Proprietor Stefano Grilli, along with his winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, fashioned this spectacular wine, which has been consistently brilliant over recent vintages. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620