Either Kynsi’s vines are older, or their learning curve is up, but this is easily their best Bien Nacido Pinot. It’s dry and silky, and ultrarich in cherry pie, cola, rhubarb marmalade and rosehip tea flavors, with an enormous Asian spiciness that lasts through a long finish. Very fine, and should hold for five years. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 89