Thurston Wolfe pioneered Zinfandel in Washington. This is the seventh vintage from the Zephyr Ridge vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, vinified to California-style alcohol levels of 15.5%. A fruit bomb to be sure, but along with jammy raspberries and strawberries you’ll find interesting nuances of pencil lead, oak and chocolate.——P.G.(3/1/2010)—— 90