The 2003 Blaufrankisch Altenberg, smells intensely of blackberry compote and Szechuan pepper. Intense black fruit and pepper on the palate go hand in hand with glyceral richness and fat that cover the wine’s more than ample tannins. The finish is single-mindedly of black fruit and pepper, well focused but with a trace of heat and (perhaps just youthful?) austerity. It is wonderful to see two such different wines emerging from the same grape, vintner, and vintage. Aside from whatever this may tell us about terroir, it makes for welcome variety and a reason to follow them both. Clearly this Altenberg is reaching for a bigger, more structured effect, but today at least, the Ungerberg is not only more winsome but also far more complex.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334 6700