The 2009 Madoro flows from the glass with plums, black cherries, mocha, espresso, grilled herbs and spices. Maculan has decided once again to age Madoro in French oak as opposed to steel. The result is a rich, textured sweet wine loaded with personality and class. The intensity of the fruit flows through effortlessly to the long, gracious finish. This is a fabulous showing from Maculan. The 2009 Madoro is 80% Marzemino and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is another strong set of wines from Fausto Maculan, one of the leading lights in Veneto. My only real criticism is that the top reds are being released far too early for wines of such pedigree. These wines rank among the very best being made anywhere, but it is not surprising they remain relatively unknown considering they arrive in the marketplace too young to be fully appreciated. Sadly, there is no new release of the flagship Acininobili, but there are plenty of other great choices in this strong line-up.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Madoro is a red dessert wine (a 80-20 blend of Marzemino and Cabernet Sauvignon) that ages five months in French oak for savory aromas of barbecue spice, mesquite wood and crushed clove. Sweet versus sour tones appear on the close.——M.L.(12/15/2011)—— 89