Coming from its Criots and Bienvenues, Boillot's 2006 Batard-Montrachet had two very difficult acts to follow. The dominant themes here are ripe peaches, brown spices, and nut oils, imbedded in a palpably dense and relatively firm-feeling palate, and clinging tenaciously with a bitter-sweet peach, peach kernel, and pungent spice. While impressive, this does not display the uncanny balance or flavor interplay of its grand cru siblings, and leaves behind a bit of heat. But there may well be more here than met my nose and palate on the occasion in question. And I can certainly imagine this being worth at least 6-8 years of cellaring.
Henri Boillot's ambitious and burgeoning negociant arm is made up in large part of many small bottling lots, representing remarkably many of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. -Precision and minerality- are words he offers to explain his intentions even in a vintage as ripe as 2006, and for the most part he walks the accompanying walk, with wines (largely assembled in tank) that showed more generously and expressively than did Boillot's estate wines on the same day.
Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724