The 2009 Pecorino from Cocci Grifoni is elegant and refined from start to finish. It shows terrific energy in its white peaches, citrus and flowers. A crisp finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

There’s a dry mineral note that helps propel this Pecorino-based white wine over the palate. That elegant, dusty tone is followed by stone fruit, melon and yellow rose. The nice thing about this wine is that it doesn’t feel heavy or too rich.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 86