The 2004 RESERVA is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca. By some measures, it is the best wine here, which becomes apparent only after an hour or so. It has better structure than the Novus or the Coroa D’ouro Reserva. It is more ageworthy. The rather light mid-palate fleshes out a bit with air and this shows decent fruit as time goes on. There is a bit of mint on the finish. After that, the wine’s evolution is unimpressive, as it does flatten fairly fast and the finish is rather modest. The Novus may not be quite as well structured, but it has more personality, and some sex appeal. The fruit forward style of the Novus may not hold as well, to be sure. Drink 2009-2013.Importers: HGC Imports, San Jose, CA.; tel. (408) 947-8511; Monarchia Matt International, Armonk, N.Y.; tel. (877) 273-8466.

Wood-aged and almost black in color from the ripe, sweet berry fruit flavors and the velvet, opulent layers of polished wood and tannins. It’s certainly a powerhouse of flavors, but the dry core keeps it from being out of balance, while the aftertaste is sweet and dry at the same time. Impressive.——R.V.(4/1/2008)—— 92