Aromas of citrus peel, candy and sweet fruit are challenging at first and better as they evolve. There’s a pine or fir quality to the wine, which makes it herbal and almost juniper-like. Surrounding that there’s cherry, berry and scratchy tannins. Rounds out into a deep, big wine that makes its point and tastes very much like Ribera del Duero.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 88