Leroux’s 2005 Volnay comes from the Grands Champs and a sliver of the 1er Cru Les Mitans just above it. Tart cherry and subtle florals in the nose lead to a bright, faintly tart red cherry palate with hints of vanilla and bitter chocolate. There is an abundance of fine tannin and impressive if presently somewhat austere length. Young Benjamin Leroux took over in 1999 from Pascal Marchand (who made this estate’s modern reputation), and the wines have never tasted better, nor more ageworthy. The domaine has also continued to grow – through purchase and rental – beyond their famous 13 acre core property, the Clos des Epeneaux. The wines had never been racked when I tasted them – that will only happen when they are assembled for bottling (unfiltered) – so allowance must be made for slight reduction. Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.