Bonterra has been a champion of organic grapegrowing, and their wines have always been classic expressions of varietal character. So it is with this inexpensive Cabernet. It’s dry, richly tannic and flavorful in blackberries and cherries, with a ripe edge of cocoa. Fully drinkable now, it has real elegance and class. ——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 87