The 2004 Pinot Gris Cuvee Saint Catherine is also marked by noble rot, but in all gustatory respects it could scarcely be more different from the 2005. Musky, mushroom and smoked meat aromas dominate. In the mouth one gets a slightly muddled yet fascinatingly complex and impressively smoky impression, and a strikingly creamy texture. The finish here is strong on carnal, fungal elements, persistent but a bit diffuse. With the right dishes this could hit its stride, but I would not put any in my cellar. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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