The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu has a tightly wound bouquet: blackberry, bilberry and red plum fruit that will clearly need a few years to unfurl. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit, linear and strict, surprisingly masculine and structured like many wines that I have tasted from this premier cru and missing the usual opulence. Let's see how this performs once in bottle.