Kerpen’s envelopingly rich and creamy 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken generates interesting counterpoint with its faintly bitter notes of vanilla, peach kernel, and apple pit, as well as a toasty, nutty, smoky, stony depth. There was a separate “Alte Reben” bottling, but unfortunately, by the time I showed up at the winery, there was not even a bottle to be had for tasting. Martin Kerpen and his vines had a hard act to follow after their successes in 2005 but were more than up to the task, confirming the hypothesis that these always excellent wines have crossed a new quality threshold. Still, the last place I would have imagined 2006s keeping pace was in the range of trocken.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300