If you’re going to charge $36 for Baco Noir, you must have a lot of confidence that it’s something special. This one is. Intense and earthy, the fruit has the concentration of raspberry syrup. Tar and leather, rock and earth are folded in, with some of the tack room scents of brett, but not detrimentally. There is so much fruit here that it can more than hold its own.——P.G.(10/1/2008)—— 89