Given 14% alcohol allied to Riesling-like acidity, it’s unsurprising that the Barthelmes’ 2008 Pinot Gris Rosenberg makes a big impact. Roasted peanuts and coffee with ripe peach and a maritime mixture of salinity and alkalinity on the nose reprise on an expansive, oily, lusciously juicy, nutty, yet brightly citric palate, tinged with smoke and mineral matter. An impression of rich meat stock as well as hints of coriander add depth and allure to this remarkable, fascinating, and long-finishing Pinot Gris, one of those whose like you will have to search hard (and probably in vain) to find outside of the vintage in question. This will age at least as well as a corresponding Riesling, but let’s say “at least 12-15 years” for safety’s sake. Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

This light-bodied Pinot Gris has a pleasant smoky undertow, along with tangy acidity, bolstering flavors of white peach, clementine and star fruit. Clean and bright. Drink now. 100 cases imported.??–AN??Region: France / Alsace Select to Add