The 2004 Syrah “Ethos” was aged for 20 months in 80% new oak. Opaque purple, it has a classic aromatic array of smoked meat, bacon, sausage, and blue fruits. This leads to a layered, full-bodied wine with gobs of peppery fruit and intense flavors. The wine is mouth-filling and structured with enough tannin and fruit to support 3-5 years in the cellar. Drink this Hermitage-like wine through 2024. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

This is a gem from winemaker Bob Bertheau; Syrah seems to be his red. Sharp, spicy and beautifully precise, this is packed with tart berries and peppery spice. The new oak builds in more spice and sweet toast, while the tannins add earth and leaf to the mix. It’s supple and forward and fruit driven, with power and precision.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 91