The limited production but phenomenal 2004 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is one of the candidates for the wine of the vintage. Tannic and dense ruby/purple, it is more masculine and austere than usual, but still concentrated with tangy acidity, loads of tannin, and impressive levels of concentration and richness. This is a beauty that will require patience. Give it 3-4 years of bottle age and then drink it over the following 10-12 years. The Ogiers are a wonderful family, and it’s gratifying to see the extraordinary quality of wine that continues to emerge from them. The son Stephane has taken over fully from his dad, who seems to be inching into full retirement, and continues to push the estate to higher and higher levels of quality.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2004s at Ogier are tremendously successful, none more so than the family’s top cuvee. The 2004 Belle Helene boasts waves of creamy raspberry fruit framed by wonderfully supple tannins. Long-lasting on the finish, it’s already delicious but should develop additional complexity through 2015.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 93