Like any good Bonarda, this is a tough wine. But on the other hand, it’s flush, very dark and full of black-fruit flavors and texture. The nose is piercing but honest, while the palate is big and fleshy, with firm tannins, extract and bright black cherry and blackberry flavors. Thick throughout, with bacony notes to the finish. ——M.S.(12/31/2010)—— 88