The 2007 Valpolicella Superiore Campi Magri offers up sweet scents of dark cherries, tobacco, dried herbs, licorice and leather. The Campi Magri relies more on elegance and restraint rather than sheer power to make its case, which it does convincingly. This delicate, polished Valpolicella is best enjoyed while the fruit retains its vibrancy. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. This is a sublime set of wines from Corte Sant’Alda. The estate has made notable wines for some time, but this year I was especially struck by the elegance of the entire range.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Campo Magri is a bright and lively Valpolicella Superiore with crisp tones of cherry and wild berry backed by slight smoke and spice. The natural acidity will cut through the density or ossobuco or beef stew. ——M.L.(2/1/2011)—— 88