Yeasty and proper in the nose, with a hint of apple blossom. The palate features healthy fruit in the standard pears-and-apples realm, and then some welcome nuances of nutmeg and cinnamon. The finish is dry, long and solid, and overall it delivers the full Champagne experience with no flaws. All in all, a good bubbly effort out of the Northwest. –M.S.——M.S.(6/1/2003)—— 89