The more substantial 2009 Chardonnay Reserva saw 30% of the wine fermented and aged for 8 months in new French oak before being blended back into the 70% fermented and aged in stainless steel. It is an easygoing effort revealing a touch of oak along with enticing aromas of poached pear and spiced apple. In the glass it reveals balancing acidity and ample spicy fruit. It is a good value meant for drinking over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Opici Wines, Glen Rock, NJ; tel. (201) 689-3256; www.opiciwines.com

A more than solid wine cut from the tropical, South American blueprint. It’s open and full of banana, pear and apple aromas, and while it runs hot and fast on the palate, it’s got lots of woody, ripe flavors of apple and pithy citrus. Round, lively and packed with flavor even if it shows almost nothing in common with cool-climate Chardonnay.——M.S.(11/1/2010)—— 88