A big, darkly colored wine, Hulk-sized in its mouthfilling flavors. They range from very ripe, jammy summer blackberries, plums and blueberries to dark chocolate and coffee, and are very dry. There’s a dusty sprinkling of tannins in the mouth that demands rich foods, such as duck, steak or lamb.——S.H.(4/1/2004)—— 90