The 2007 Syrah Stillwater Creek Vineyard is a glass-coating, opaque purple. It reveals an excellent aromatic array of smoke, game, bacon, Asian spices, lavender, and blueberry. Balanced, spicy, and layered on the palate, this succulently fruited Syrah will evolve for 2-3 years but can be approached now. Guardian Cellars was launched n 2003 by Jerry Reiner, a full-time police officer, hence some of the names assigned to his wines. The winery officially opened in 2007 and current production stands at 1500 cases.www.guardiancellars.com

This citrusy Syrah, from a vineyard on the Royal Slope, spent 18 months in 75% new French oak. Yet it is not oaky or even particularly toasty; what comes through are tart berry flavors with a backbone of leaf and stem. It shows some heat in the finish, and a wash of chalky chocolate. This is a wine to decant. ——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 89