Tannins mark this tough, still young wine from beginning to end. The astringency envelops the fruit, giving the mouthfeel a hard, dry astringency. Even though there are some well-developed blackberry and currant flavors, the wine is unrelieved in harshness. Try cellaring until at least 2013, but it’s risky.——S.H.(8/1/2010)—— 87