The impressive Hatters Hill 2006 Pinot Noir is more sullen with brambly fruits, almost animally in style, subdued on the entry but gaining in intensity with aeration, developing an almost Northern Rhone-like pepperiness towards the sumptuous finish. This is certainly a name to watch for in the future.For a long time, winemaker/consultant Matt Thomson had been searching for a suitable site in Marlborough to start his joint-venture with David Gleave MW and when he finally discovered a triangular-shaped hill to the west of Blenheim in 2000, the dream turned reality. The regular Pinot Noir comes from the flat section of the vineyard, Hatters Hill from an elevation that rises to 175m. Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000; fax (914) 769-7112

Highly fragrant nose, real purity. Smooth, silky palate, lovely sweet fruit, juicy, high quality tannins, long finish. Superb.