The 2009 Esino Pieralisi for Friends Vigna Colle del Sole is packaged in one of those massively heavy, environmentally challenging glass bottles that hints at brawn and muscle within. Indeed, this 60/40 blend of Sangiovese and Merlot opens with a dark, impenetrable appearance backed by deeply concentrated aromas of cured meat, black fruit and exotic spice. There’s a note of sour fruit on the close and all said and done, it’s almost too much of good thing.