Deep red-ruby. Exotic spices currently dominate aromas of smoked meat, chocolate, tobacco and gunflint. Suave and silky in the mouth, with harmonious acids intensifying the berry, chocolate and tobacco flavors and giving cut to the wine. Finishes with smooth, fine-grained tannins and no rough edges. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham AL

Better flavors than aromas. The nose begins gassy and burnt, and it never quite sheds that harsh barrel smell. But in the mouth, it has sweet, chunky fruit and a pleasant softness. Our bet is that if given time to properly open, folks will like it because of its easiness.——M.S.(12/1/2003)—— 84