Candied melon and honey dominate the nose and palate of the 2005 Coteaux du Layon Cuvee Le Paon. A formidably-concentrated, admirably pure, and not at all heavy wine, its sheer sweetness nevertheless overwhelms any sense of elegance and probably blocks access to more diverse flavors that would emerge if one chose to give this 5-7 years in the cellar. But I fear that excellent though it is, this wine has too much competition from within its own ranks alone. Importer: Ex Cellars wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

Peacock (paon) cuvee is a deliciously showy wine, powered with intense sweetness, almost syrup. The counterbalance to all this sweetness is the pear, apricot and citrus elements, which go with the dry layer of botrytis to leave a wine that it has a crisp, fresh aftertaste. Screwcap.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 93