It’s always interesting to see why some wineries will acknowledge small percentages of Viognier on the label and some won’t—in this case, maybe it’s because the Viognier clocks in at a whopping 9% of the wine’s volume. In any case, it’s just excellent, with sweet chalk or trading-gum powder on the nose, and dry tannins in the mouth. Plum fruit is beautiful, and framed by dry earth. Quite a classy wine. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 90